Trad

On my first night in Kilkenny, Jenn, the friend I met from the hostel, and I went in search of live music in one of the pubs (because that is what you do) and ended up at Cleere’s pub, apparently a pretty famous small concert venue. It happened that a few local bands were playing in the back room. It was not the traditional Irish music (trad, as it is called) that we were looking for, but we were not disappointed. However, as I was determined to find some good trad, I asked around the next day and eventually came across a poster that offered some promising information.

That night, Kilkenny was celebrating Earth Hour (an annual event where everyone turns out their lights for an hour as a way to raise awareness about global climate change) culminating with “Trad Night by Candlelight” at Ryan’s pub. Perfect. I told Jenn about it, and she was just as excited as I was. The music was fantastic, although the session was not quite as long as I would have liked. Jenn and I made friends with one of the musicians from the band who told us about a flaedh (a trad festival) going on in a small town called Leighlin (lock-lin) Bridge only about twenty minutes north of Kilkenny. With a little bit of schedule adjusting, Jenn and I figured we could make it out to Leighlin Bridge for a while for the sake of some good music. I love that we were able to be spontaneous and flexible with plans, just pick up and go.

Once we arrived in Leighlin Bridge, a very small but very beautiful town, we were directed to the Parish center, where they were having a barbeque to start the day’s festivities. (It was Sunday and the flaedh had been going on since Friday, so this was the final day). A handful of people were hanging out in the parking lot, adults chatting over hamburgers and hotdogs (or sausages, as they say) and kids playing football and playing impromptu tunes on their small pipes. We were immediately welcomed and given free lunch, in spite of our protests. After an amazing hamburger (my first taste of “American” food in about two months), we walked back down to the town’s main pub where the music would be happening later. We were only able to stay for a little bit of the music, but it was worth every minute.

We took a seat at the bar and the bartender asked us what we would have, to which we replied that just a cup of tea would be lovely. He asked us where we were from, why we were in Ireland, and if either of had any Irish in us; after I told him the story of my Irish family, he declared me to be honorary Irish while I was there. A few minutes later, he brought out two mugs of tea and two chocolate snacks for which he refused payment: “They’re complimentary for you,” he said. A guy sitting a few seats down said, “Jim, how about a complimentary pint down this way.” To which the bartender replied, “Now, Pat, you’re not nearly as pretty as the two girls, and besides, I know how many you’ve already had.” I am seriously blown away by the friendliness of the Irish people. I don’t think I have ever received so many free things accompanied by so many smiles and stories.